Apicius and the Secrets of Long-Lasting Ancient Roman Food

Ancient Roman fresco of eggs, birds, and bronze dishes from the House of Julia Felix

Givers of great dinners know few enemies.

Martial

The governance of food supplies was an indispensable part of the Ancient Roman lifestyle. And it is today too, but today it  is much  easier with electricity, smart fridges, and other benefits of modern technology. But back then, it was different with Ancient Roman food. The Romans developed a precise art of preserving it. Without that, maybe Ancient Roman food wouldn’t be so fascinating. Apicius, also known as De re culinaria or De re coquinaria, probably compiled in the fifth century AD, a collection of recipes, brings also the little secrets of managing food supplies that made the Roman cuisine high-quality. So, the following are some questions that Romans were interested in and the answers Apicius gives.

The Apicius manuscript of the monastery of Fulda in Germany, c. 900 AD, CC BY-SA 3.0

How do You  Make Dark Wine White?

How do you make dark wine white? You put a filter made of beans or an egg (specifically the white) into a flask, and shake it for a very long time. If you add salt, it will be white, and white vine ash does the same.

About Improved Garum

If garum (fish sauce) has developed a bad odor, put it into a clean vessel and purify it with laurel and cypress. And pour it for use before eating. If it is too salty, add a sextarius of honey and nine sprigs of an aromatic herb. This will correct it, and fresh must (unfermented grape juice) also works the same way.

Roman spoons with duck or swan handles. Photo by Linda Spashett, CC BY 3.0

How do You Make Meat Fresh Without Salt?

Cover fresh meat of whatever type you want with honey. But the vessel should be hung, and use it when you wish. This works better in winter.

Pork or Beef Callus

To preserve tough cuts of pork or beef, and cooked legumes or nuts, for a long time: Prepare a mustard sauce with vinegar, salt, and honey. Submerge figs in this sauce until they are fully covered. When you wish to use the preserved meat or kernels, you will be surprised by their longevity and flavor.

How Can Salty Meat be Made Sweet?

You will make salty meat sweet if you first cook it in milk and then in water.

Fresco showing a piece of bread and two figs, from Pompeii. Photo by Carole Raddato, CC BY-SA 2.0

How Can Fresh Fish Last a Long Time?

How can fresh fish last a long time? At the same moment it is fried and lifted (from the oil),  pour hot vinegar over it.

How Can Oysters Last a Long Time?

How can oysters last a long time? Begin by cleaning a small, pitch-sealed jar, either by washing it out with vinegar or rinsing it thoroughly if it previously contained vinegar. Once clean, carefully arrange your fresh oysters within the jar.

How Can Sweet Honey Last a Long Time?

How can sweet honey last a long time? Get a suitable container (like what the Greeks call a ‘nechonus’). Then, prepare flour and mix it with the honey at the time you intend to make your sweets.

Making Bad Honey Good

How to make bad honey good for selling? You mix together one part bad honey with two parts good.

Testing Bad Honey

How to test bad honey?  Pour helenium (likely a plant or extract) into honey and set it on fire. If it isn’t bad, it shines.

A still life with fruit basket and vases. Pompeii, c. AD 70

How do You Preserve Fruit?

How are fresh figs, plums, and pears preserved? They are preserved with wax, so  they last a long time. Carefully tie all of them with their stems, and place them in a basket so they don’t touch each other.

Keeping Vegetables for a Long Time

How are vegetables kept for a long time? Place selected vegetables that are not fully ripe into a pitched (sealed) jar.

Seasoned Salts

These seasoned salts, prepared in various ways, are used for digestion, to aid with bowel movements, and as a defense against all diseases and even plague.

Author

  • Ivana Tucak, Editor-in-Chief, is an experienced historian who seamlessly blends traditional expertise with a cutting-edge approach to digital media. She holds an MA in History and Italian Language and Literature from the University of Split. With a distinguished career spanning various online publications, Ivana has extensively covered a wide range of topics, notably focusing on history and international politics.

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